The Quiet Craft of Khmer Rice Paper: A Morning in Preah Dak

A Village That Smells of Rice and Sun

Just a 20-minute drive east of Siem Reap town, the village of Preah Dak sits quietly among rice fields and sugar palm trees. We went there on a Tuesday morning, when the air was still cool and the sun was low. The first thing we noticed was the smell: warm rice flour, faintly sweet, drifting from open-air workshops along the dirt lane.

Preah Dak is known for its rice paper, the thin, brittle sheets that are the base for Cambodian spring rolls. Unlike the factory-made versions, here the paper is still made the old way, by hand, in the open air. We parked our bikes near the village temple and walked the rest of the way.

The Making of a Sheet

The process is simple but requires rhythm. A woman named Srey Mom, who has been making rice paper for over twenty years, showed us how it’s done. She dipped a cloth stretched over a wooden frame into a shallow tray of rice batter, then lifted it out, letting the excess drip back. The thin film on the cloth was then placed on a bamboo rack to dry in the sun. Within minutes, the edges started to curl, and she peeled off a perfect, translucent sheet.

We watched for about an hour. The workers moved in a steady loop: dip, lift, place, peel. The sound of the batter sloshing and the soft thud of the frames hitting the racks was almost musical. The sun was warm on our backs, and the smell of toasted rice grew stronger as the morning progressed.

Tasting the Results

Fresh rice paper is a different thing from the brittle sheets you buy in the market. We were offered a piece straight off the rack, still slightly warm. It was soft, chewy, and had a gentle nutty flavor. We also tried it wrapped around a piece of grilled pork and a sprig of mint, a simple combination that tasted like the countryside itself.

Later, we visited a small shop across the lane where they sell the finished product. The sheets are stacked in neat bundles, ready to be taken to the markets in Siem Reap. We bought a few packs to bring home, though we knew they wouldn’t last long.

Getting there

Preah Dak is about 12 kilometers east of Siem Reap town, on the road towards Banteay Srei. You can take a tuk-tuk from the center for a reasonable fare, or rent a bicycle if you’re feeling energetic. The road is mostly flat and paved, and the ride takes about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace. The village is well signposted, but if you get lost, just ask for the rice paper makers. Everyone knows where they are.

Good to know

• The best time to visit is in the morning, before the heat of the day and before the drying racks are full. By late morning, the workers often take a break.
• There is no set price for watching or taking photos, but it is customary to buy a few packs of rice paper as a thank you. The price is very reasonable, and you’ll be supporting the local families directly.
• The rice paper is best eaten fresh, but if you buy it to take home, store it in a dry, cool place. It can also be lightly toasted over a flame to make a crispy snack.
• If you’re interested in a deeper experience, some families in the village offer short workshops where you can try making a sheet yourself. Ask around, and you’ll likely find someone willing to teach you.Staying in Siem Reap? Bungalow 1955 is nine private apartments around a shared pool, minutes from Angkor — enquire about dates.